Raging fire in my soul
Burning through this wicked world
Showing us the way out of Babylonia
Fire fire in my soul
Burning through the evil world
Showing us the way to the higher kingdom
-Hosanna, Andre Tanker
I was sitting on top of a hill in La Lune, Moruga, eating a leaf of pak choi, meditating on what makes life beautiful and worth living. Good food, I conclude, is high on the list of priorities. As is clean air and work that is fulfilling. It's one of those days when I am thanking the goddesses that I can be a hippy and still have a job that allows me the luxury of sitting in the middle of spinach contemplating life. On this hill in La Lune, there are friends and acquaintances from Trinidad and elsewhere and in this moment nothing matters. Not the murder rate. Not the fear we have of ourselves. Not the potholed obstacle course we had to take to get there. In this corner of paradise, where politicians' voices do not penetrate the roar of the wind in your ears and the smell of sea breeze in your nostrils, you can think a little more clearly.
I was reasoning with Noriega the farmer, who is one of those people who make you think that all is not lost for this country. If every community had just one Noriega, if not one Norris Deonarine. He explains why he is back here. After taking the town people education and preaching in the Christian church. Why he is planting the sweetest pak choi known to my mouth on this hill so steep. If everybody leaves, what is left? Abandoned cocoa and coffee plantations, the memory of enslavement and post-emancipation masters too fresh in their minds. Family estates abandoned in search of town's bright lights. Young men who would rather plant some ganja to feed the habits of town people who have the money to afford a locally grown head. Noriega knows what happiness is, I think. He looks like he does. He has none of the uptight pretensions of town people. But he knows that he deserves a lot more.
Someone from town says that what they want is not development. Leave them just so. So that people like me can go down there and indulge in my escapist hippy fantasies about simpler times and simple people who are happy with what the earth and sea give them. I wonder if there is a happier balance. Where Noriega can have his peace and I can have nicer pak choi all the time. Because, Jah knows, I haven't the time to plant it myself, what with all the time I spend on Facebook and Twitter. On the top of this hill, I am wondering if there is a model of development that makes it possible for paradise not to be neglected or lost to big buildings. If Moruga's underdevelopment is an indication of how T&T could be if someone cared enough.
For men like Noriega to fully benefit from all his hard work. But this is the eternal crisis of countries like ours. Where we neglect the rural in favour of the urban. Where the voices of farmers, food givers, are not given full attention and politicians make pronouncements without consultation with anyone who might have more than an iota of sense.But we think we're doing things alright here. We think we're on the right track. We're happy. We're oh so happy here. So says some doctoral student, who has been studying our ways. Trinidad and Tobago ranks at number five on the scale of countries in the Western Hemisphere. There is, she says, a definite link between one's economic situation and one's happiness levels. Why shouldn't we be happy? We're horribly rich. Natural disasters don't seem to like us. A fair percentage of the women look like goddesses. Maybe this place is blessed after all. Or maybe we have been cursed by some heretofore unknown god of indifference. Some deity of how it heng, it swing that makes us all super okay with the hand we've been dealt.
The truth is I sometimes wonder if all the material things we have are a distraction to the happiness that we can have if a disaster strikes or when the oil runs out. In this moment we care only for the immediate pleasures, the wine, women and song, live and direct and instantly messaged to you. The Moruga kind of happiness that is a dip in the sea and children flying mad bulls and sitting on a hill eating raw pak choi. With the option of uploading to your Twitter feed too. Just you and the bush and the bugs. Connected to the world even as you stay rooted to a solid place called home.