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Sunday, March 16, 2025

Recounting the Corbeaux Town days

by

20130831

Un­til the Port-of-Spain har­bour was re­claimed in the 1930s, the sea ap­proach was very shal­low, ne­ces­si­tat­ing the land­ing of pas­sen­gers and goods at a wood­en jet­ty called St Vin­cent Wharf be­cause it ran in­to St Vin­cent Street.To the west was a low mud­flat which had a sandy beach. To the north was the sug­ar cane of Wood­brook Es­tate. This area be­came quite pop­u­lat­ed in the 1830s af­ter eman­ci­pa­tion as a place for fish­er­men and boat­builders. The beach was al­so the place where the marchan­des or huck­sters of the city would come and hag­gle with the fish­er­men in their boats for the catch.The fish would then be tak­en on a wood­en tray on the heads of the marchan­des with the cry of 'Pois­son frais...pois­son frais...feeesh..fressh feesh" ring­ing in the morn­ing air.Nat­u­ral­ly, the of­fal of the gut­ted fish at­tract­ed the birds which gave the area its name, as they were snide­ly de­scribed in 1847 by CW Day, who com­pared them to prac­ti­tion­ers of the law:

"The streets are kept very clean and a species of buz­zard or car­rion vul­ture er­ro­neous­ly called Cor­bo, or crow, are the au­tho­rised scav­engers. These birds, which are black, and as large as young turkeys, have long gawky legs, keen eyes, an iron-grey cowl cov­er­ing their necks, which gives them a lu­di­crous re­sem­blance to bar­ris­ters in cos­tume. They are know­ing fel­lows too, and fight as keen­ly for their of­fal as any gen­tle­man of the bar can do for his fee. It is very droll to see them in the morn­ing, af­ter a night's dew or rain, sit­ting in rows on the house tops, spread­ing out their wings to dry."

Cor­beaux Town will for­ev­er be im­mor­tal as the sub­ject of great art for it is here that Trinidad's con­sum­mate artist Michel Jean Caz­abon (1813-1888) came many a morn­ing to cap­ture in wa­ter­colours the scenes of the beach and its peo­ple.In 1879 the Bor­ough Coun­cil of Port-of-Spain erect­ed a fish mar­ket. There were many mas­ters of ma­rine crafts res­i­dent at Cor­beaux Town, in­clud­ing net mak­ers who with light­ning pre­ci­sion, could make yards and yards of seine. Boat­builders were the oth­er great crafts­men, of­ten work­ing from the shade of a co­conut tree, shap­ing lum­ber with adzes. Sea­soned tim­ber from the high woods com­bined with pitch-pine sawn on the oth­er end of town at the La Basse sawmill com­prised the main fab­ric of the sloops and pirogues they built. Wood­en dow­els were used to hold the boats to­geth­er, since iron nails would rust and com­pro­mise the in­tegri­ty of the ves­sels.Around 1900, a road­way was ex­tend­ed through the area, cut­ting across low­er Sackville Street. It was named af­ter its en­gi­neer, Walsh Wright­son. Cor­beaux Town con­tin­ued much un­changed un­til the 1920s. A small con­crete stor­age bin look­ing like a me­dieval keep was erect­ed at the wa­ter's edge. It be­longed to William Pet­ti­grew Humphrey, who was an ear­ly lo­cal cin­e­ma pi­o­neer. In those times, the cel­lu­loid film reels were high­ly flam­ma­ble. Port-of-Spain was for­ev­er un­der the threat of fire, hav­ing been com­plete­ly razed in 1808 and 1895, so that the con­stab­u­lary man­dat­ed Humphrey to store the films out­side city lim­its in­stead of at his of­fices on Broad­way.

The last days of Cor­beaux Town came in 1936-38 when a young and dy­nam­ic city en­gi­neer named Ran­jit Ku­mar de­cid­ed to turn Wright­son Road in­to a dual car­riage­way, which ne­ces­si­tat­ed the recla­ma­tion of the swampy land be­tween Walsh Wright­son's orig­i­nal route and the sea. This meant that Cor­beaux Town would be left high and dry.Even be­fore this, how­ev­er, the end was in sight. From around 1922 the dy­nam­ic may­or, Dr AH Mc­Shine, had com­menced plans for slum clear­ance and erad­i­ca­tion of the noi­some bar­rack yards of the city. This was sup­port­ed by the city med­ical of­fi­cer, Dr GH Mas­so, who him­self had been born in­to hum­ble cir­cum­stances in Cor­beaux Town.Slow­ly and steadi­ly Cor­beaux Town be­gan to change and be­came more gen­tri­fied, al­beit still a place where fish­ing boats were built and used and nets hung out to dry.The ex­ten­sion of Wright­son Road was large­ly com­plet­ed by 1939 and ful­ly so by 1940. The Humphrey Film Vault was left ma­rooned in­land and can still be seen near the Cap­i­tal Plaza ho­tel.A year lat­er the Amer­i­can Army moved in­to the area known as Dock­site and set up camp, where it re­mained un­til 1946, af­ter World Warr II end­ed.Even though Cor­beaux Town dis­ap­peared, the last boat­builder re­mained in a shed near the old area un­til the 1970s.


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