What if you could play mas and be socially responsible? Imagine playing mas and being environmentally friendly at the same time.It may sound far-fetched or not thought about at all by some, but it is coming very soon.
This is the aim of Brown Cotton Caribbean with their Freedom Vibe Tribe line.
Brown Cotton Caribbean is a sustainability-focused creative agency which is currently based in the Spice Isle Grenada. It is managed by two Trinidadian women Risanne Martin, its founder and Leah de Gannes.
The brand is making waves as it recently released a sustainable Carnival Costume concept which will be worn by several masqueraders hitting the road in Grenada’s SpiceMas in the next couple weeks.
This concept, Martin and Brown Cotton hope, will shape the Carnivals of the Future.
It had been widely expected that after two years without a traditional Carnival, the upcoming festivals across the Caribbean would breathe fresh life into the market, and Martin’s decision to create a sustainable Carnival Costume has proven that expectation to be true.
Martin has been a designer for just about a decade. She built her reputation by designing outfits for several major artistes in the soca fraternity such as Kerwin Du Bois, Nailah Blackman, Nadia Batson and Destra.
Over the years these artistes have taken to the stage or shot music videos adorned in designs by Brown Cotton.
In 2020, she was sought by Soca King Machel Montano to design for him and his team for his performances over the course of the season.
However while the leading entertainers within the Carnival industry were adorned with her designs, Martin did not have her eyes set on Carnival costume design. At least not until she saw The Lost Tribe emerge with their brand which shifted away significantly from the typical bikini and beads display.
She started designing for Lost Tribe in 2017, and over time the embryo for the sustainable costume began to develop.
Some may think that Carnival costumes may not be the most environmentally detrimental aspect of the Carnival industry, but the costumes, either through production or use, eventually become discarded and as a result, contribute to non-biodegradable waste.
Martin said she hoped to buck that trend through her work.
She told the Business Guardian that an experience in Carnival 2020 in particular inspired her to push the idea.
“In 2020, my Trinidad Carnival design included a lot of plastic parts. While on the road I saw one in a drain and I felt sick literally. This inspired us to join the sustainable movement and to find creative ways to do better for our planet and future generations,” she said.
The COVID-19 pandemic and the down time created within the Carnival sector allowed for a period of self reflection for Martin, who moved to Grenada.
“The feeling was really self probing. How can this art leave a legacy? How can I leave this world, this earth better than I found it? My partner Leah and I asked ourselves these questions for years before the pandemic but it never manifested itself until the pandemic when all the work had stopped. We found the courage to be and create what we believed in, during the lockdown,” she told the Business Guardian.
Martin explained after designing those costumes in pre-COVID era, she embarked upon a personal sustainable journey and re-branded the Brown Cotton Caribbean brand to reflect these core values.
The COVID-19 pause of the Carnival sector turned out to be a blessing as the new focus was formulated and solidified.
“We give thanks for the break that COVID allowed us. That time allowed us to focus on a bigger purpose than making money. We still love making money,” she paused to laugh, “but we also enjoy sharing creative and sustainable ways to consume fashion and Carnival culture.”
The brand has become known for upcycling and repurposing fashion and has attempt to push others to follow suit through the creation a YouTube page. There the brand constantly encourages others to limit their fast fashion consumption and disposal.
The brand is certain that Carnival consumption and disposal can be managed by each individual by upcycling and repurposing pieces.
Martin said it is Brown Cotton Caribbean’s hope that Carnival can be less harmful for our Caribbean environment and she has taken the first step by creating these new costumes, which contain several reused elements.
“Handmade ‘feathers’ using recycled denim and cotton fabric left over from past projects. I have been collecting used denim and treating it for some time in anticipation for this project. We also encourage our customers to get creative with the costume pieces to use as home or office décor. Every year we plan to add even more sustainable elements. We are certainly not the first to consider this model and we are excited to bring our unique twist annually,” she explained.
However with such a unique approach, there would be some who might question how the costumes would hold up compared to their pretty mas relatives, but Martin is confident that she has found the right balance of design and eco-sustainability.
“There have been a few challenges creatively in bridging the gap between beauty and sustainability but I believe we have overcome that and can now focus on inspiring others in the space to embrace a more sustainable approach,” she said.
The response to her work so far has been well received. The costumes are set to début in the upcoming Grenada Carnival, better known as Spice Mas and despite limited marketing, the Freedom Vibe Tribe line is already a hot seller.
Martin said, “Our social media campaign has only started a few days ago and the response has been overwhelming. There has been so much interesting dialogue in the island Carnival space about beauty and sustainability. The costumes are already sold out and we are so excited to share this experience at Grenada Spice Mas 2022.”
She told the Business Guardian that there are already plans to bring the designs back to T&T’s Carnival in 2023.