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Saturday, May 3, 2025

Taiwan embraces pan and calypso

by

20130404

Up­on re­turn­ing from a vis­it to Trinidad in 1957, Amer­i­can folk mu­si­cian and po­lit­i­cal icon Pe­te Seeger an­nounced that pan "was des­tined to spread to the far­thest reach­es of the globe." And in­deed, the past half cen­tu­ry has seen the sounds and spir­it of pan in­fil­trate six con­ti­nents and count­less coun­tries.

In some places (Eu­rope and North Amer­i­ca) the in­roads have been brisk, and oth­ers not so much. In the lat­ter cat­e­go­ry falls Asia–a rel­a­tive­ly re­cent con­quest for the mu­sic of pan. Tai­wan may not be lo­cat­ed in the Caribbean, but this part of Asia has been mov­ing and groov­ing to pan for near­ly 25 years. All thanks to one im­por­tant Trinidad-Amer­i­ca-Tai­wan pan con­nec­tion.

It was with great ex­cite­ment and cu­rios­i­ty that the peo­ple of Tai­wan wel­comed pan leg­end Cliff Alex­is in fall of 1988 as he ar­rived to build pans for Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts. Alex­is and his col­league Al O'Con­nor from North­ern Illi­nois Uni­ver­si­ty had been in­vit­ed by the Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts to build pans and es­tab­lish a steel­band in an ef­fort to ex­pand the mu­sic de­part­ment's ex­ist­ing per­cus­sion pro­gram.

This was the first steel­band of its kind in Tai­wan and at near­ly every con­cert the band played for peo­ple hear­ing pan for the first time. The mod­est size of band notwith­stand­ing (there were on­ly six sets of pans plus drum­set), the band was a huge suc­cess. With their work com­plete, O'Con­nor and Alex­is made arrange­ments to re­turn to the US. Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts, how­ev­er, was hooked on pan and set about find­ing a per­ma­nent re­place­ment for the de­part­ing pan­men in or­der to lead the group and keep the pan mu­sic alive.

Alex­is and O'Con­nor turned to one of their top pan stu­dents for the job. Like Dr Jean­nine Re­my be­fore her and Liam Teague af­ter, Sarah Barnes-Tsai was a prot�g� stu­dent of Alex­is and O'Con­nor at North­ern Illi­nois Uni­ver­si­ty and had earned both un­der­grad­u­ate and grad­u­ate de­grees in per­cus­sion and pan at the fa­mous pan in­sti­tu­tion. Barnes-Tsai ar­rived in Tai­wan in 1989 on what she thought was a 6 month con­tract to teach pan. Now some 24 years lat­er, she is still go­ing strong and the pan pro­gram at Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts is thriv­ing.

What be­gan as a small steel band of just six play­ers has evolved in­to two bands of 26 play­ers. In 1992, Cliff Alex­is re­turned to Tai­wan to build more pans for the pro­gram which now has 12 sets of pans. Each of the steel­bands at Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts meets twice per week for two hours. The en­sem­bles are re­served for mu­sic ma­jor stu­dents and non-mu­sic ma­jor stu­dents pur­su­ing de­grees in art, the­atre, and dance. In keep­ing with the spir­it of pan in Trinidad, Barnes-Tsai teach­es these en­sem­bles by rote with­out mu­sic no­ta­tion–though she does on oc­ca­sion cre­ate her own made-up charts with let­ter names and num­bers. At the end of each se­mes­ter, the Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts steel­band gives a con­cert which is well at­tend­ed.

Since its in­cep­tion, near­ly 1,000 stu­dents have tak­en steel­band class­es at the uni­ver­si­ty and thou­sands more have at­tend­ed the con­certs. What's more, these Tai­wanese steel­band stu­dents are en­thu­si­as­tic about the mu­sic of Trinidad and their per­for­mances fea­ture many of the clas­sic and cur­rent ca­lyp­so/so­ca tunes fa­mil­iar to the Caribbean in­clud­ing those by Lord Kitch­en­er, David Rud­der, and the like.

The North­ern Illi­nois Uni­ver­si­ty steel­band un­der the di­rec­tion of Cliff Alex­is and Al O'Con­nor vis­it­ed the coun­try in 1992 for ten day cross-coun­try tour of the is­land. The tour was spon­sored by the Co­or­di­na­tion Coun­cil of North Amer­i­can Af­fairs wing of the Tai­wanese gov­ern­ment. The con­cert was a huge suc­cess and in­clud­ed a mar­quee per­for­mance at the CKS Na­tion­al Con­cert Hall in Taipei for an au­di­ence in ex­cess of 30,000 peo­ple. The Tai­wanese love of pan had been set, they were bit­ten by the pan jumbie. The im­pact of the tour was great and the North­ern Illi­nois Uni­ver­si­ty steel­band was asked back to Tai­wan in 1998 for an­oth­er tour.

Al­so in 1998, West Coast per­cus­sion­ist ex­tra­or­di­naire Chris Wabich toured the coun­try with a four-piece pan side and has since re­turn with oth­er per­cus­sion groups and per­formed, taught and tuned in a va­ri­ety of set­tings. Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts is not the on­ly place for pan in Tai­wan.

Since the ear­ly 2000s, tour­ing steel­bands from Trinidad, like Rene­gades, have per­formed in Taipei and through­out the is­land at sum­mer fes­ti­vals and re­sorts. In 2008, Matt Britain, di­rec­tor of the Van­der­bilt Uni­ver­si­ty Steel­band went over to con­duct a pan work­shop at the Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts. Last year, the Be­liz­ian steel­band Pan­tem­pers per­formed for two weeks in Tai­wan.

Like T&T, Tai­wan was once a British Colony. Yet, since it's re­uni­fi­ca­tion with Chi­na in 1997 the coun­try has con­tin­ued the tra­di­tion of di­verse cul­tur­al in­fu­sion–pan be­ing but one small part. Pan is go­ing strong in Tai­wan, thanks in no small part to Pro­fes­sor Sarah Barnes-Tsai and the stu­dents of Taipei Na­tion­al Uni­ver­si­ty of the Arts.

It is be­cause of the love and ded­i­ca­tion of these pan men and women that the fu­ture of pan in Asia is on­ly at its be­gin­nings.


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