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Saturday, March 29, 2025

Whaling in the Bocas

by

20130922

Whal­ing, the bloody pur­suit of the leviathan is some­thing more of­ten as­so­ci­at­ed with Nan­tuck­et and the nov­el Mo­by Dick–strong men plung­ing dead­ly har­poons in­to the side of a mas­sive hump­back or sperm whale and then the en­tire long­boat be­ing tak­ing on a wild, dan­ger­ous jaunt known as the Nan­tuck­et Sleigh Ride. Trinidad, too, has a his­to­ry of whal­ing. Un­til syn­thet­ic pe­tro­le­um-based oils be­came wide­ly avail­able in the 20th cen­tu­ry, whale oil was in very high de­mand for a host of pur­pos­es from lamp fu­el to be­ing used for soap and cos­met­ics. Whale­bone, tough and springy, was per­haps the on­ly ma­te­r­i­al used for ladies' corsets and oth­er ap­pli­ca­tions re­quir­ing a pli­ant, durable sub­stance. My friend Jalalud­din Khan, who has un­der­tak­en sig­nif­i­cant re­search in­to the his­to­ry of lo­cal whal­ing as­serts that as ear­ly as the 1830s there was ac­tiv­i­ty of this kind since one Joell ad­ver­tised in the Port-of-Spain Gazette for able-bod­ied boat­men. The now-sleepy is­lands of Gas­pa­ree, Monos and Cha­cachacare were a hive of ac­tiv­i­ty. Aside from small­er op­er­a­tors, the Tardieu clan, the brave and hardy fish­er­men and sea­far­ers whose name would be as­so­ci­at­ed with these islets for well over two cen­turies were the pri­ma­ry whalers.

The ear­ly months of the year were when the great pods of ra­zor-back whales, some over 60 feet in length with the oc­ca­sion­al hump­back whales and their calves be­gan their mi­gra­tions through the Bo­cas. The strate­gic po­si­tion of the islets made whal­ing in Trinidad unique since Amer­i­can whalers were com­pelled to sail forth in huge ships for years at a time to re­mote parts of the globe in or­der to ob­tain their catch, whilst lo­cal whalers had sim­ply to bivouac on their is­land bases and wait.At the whal­ing sta­tions, a sharp look­out was main­tained on the hill­tops and a conch shell sound­ed when a herd spot­ted. The whale­boats con­sist­ing of as many as ten oars­men and the har­poon­er would then sal­ly out to bring in one of the whales. The process of pro­cess­ing the catch was de­scribed in 1857 by L A A De­V­er­teuil as fol­lows:"In tak­ing the whale, pe­cu­liar boats on­ly are used, so that the whalers do not ven­ture be­yond the placid wa­ters of the gulf. The method fol­lowed here is the same as that pur­sued on the ocean; but, no large ves­sels be­ing en­gaged in the pur­suit, when the an­i­mal has been killed it is towed to the es­tab­lish­ment by the boats: this is a very te­dious mode of pro­ce­dure and should the wind and tide be against the boat­men, it of­ten oc­cu­pies 24 hours. The an­i­mal is brought as near the shore as pos­si­ble, the blub­ber cut in­to long slices and car­ried to the boil­ers; even this, how­ev­er, is not ac­com­plished with­out much trou­ble.

"Very of­ten im­mense troops of sharks at­tack the car­case of the whale and de­vour part of it be­fore it can be re­moved to the es­tab­lish­ment; but they par­tic­u­lar­ly swarm around when the op­er­a­tion of slic­ing is com­menced, from 1,500 to 3,000 sharks some­times col­lect­ing in an in­cred­i­bly short time, so that some of the men are then em­ployed in killing them with har­poons and hatch­ets. Great waste of­ten takes place from im­per­fect re­sources; one-fourth of the avail­able parts of the an­i­mal be­ing some­times left on the spot. The num­ber of whales caught an­nu­al­ly is from 25 to 30; quan­ti­ty of oil, about 20,000 gal­lons. Some­times whales come in ac­com­pa­nied by their young, and as the fe­male is very fond of its off­spring, the whaler aims at wound­ing the calf with the least pos­si­ble in­jury. The moth­er, in this case, nev­er aban­dons her young, but con­tin­ues swim­ming around, so as to be eas­i­ly ap­proached and har­pooned."Dur­ing the process of de­flesh­ing (called flens­ing), the thou­sands of sharks swarm­ing around the bloody car­cass posed lit­tle dan­ger to the whalers. One 1847 ac­count ac­tu­al­ly speaks of the sharks be­ing dealt a smart whack on the head by whalers when they came too close for com­fort. Amer­i­can whale­boats some­times pro­vid­ed com­pe­ti­tion for the shore whalers of the is­lands but this caused lit­tle con­flict.By 1880 the en­tire in­dus­try was dead due to a mul­ti­tude of rea­sons from de­cline in the whale pop­u­la­tions to low mar­ket prices for whale oil.At Monos Is­land, one of the old sta­tions, Cop­per­hole (so called be­cause of the enor­mous cop­per caul­drons brought in from sug­ar es­tates to boil down the blub­ber in­to oil) be­came a pop­u­lar hol­i­day re­sort, but very lit­tle else sur­vives of this mav­er­ick chap­ter in Trinidad's his­to­ry.


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