JavaScript is disabled in your web browser or browser is too old to support JavaScript. Today almost all web pages contain JavaScript, a scripting programming language that runs on visitor's web browser. It makes web pages functional for specific purposes and if disabled for some reason, the content or the functionality of the web page can be limited or unavailable.

Wednesday, May 7, 2025

Mistakes can teach you so much, says star chef Tanya Holland

by

20150418

Food & Wine mag­a­zine is run­ning #FOOD­WINEWOMEN, a se­ries that spot­lights top women in food and drink.

The T&T Guardian will be run­ning in­ter­views from the se­ries over the next few weeks in the hope of in­spir­ing women who hope to be­come chefs, cater­ers, som­me­liers or take up oth­er roles in the food and bev­er­age in­dus­tries. To­day we fea­ture Soul and com­fort food queen Tanya Hol­land who has per­fect­ed fried chick­en and slow-cooked meats at her Oak­land, Cal­i­for­nia, restau­rants B-Side BBQ and Brown Sug­ar Kitchen. Here, she ex­plains why am­bi­tious women shouldn't fear mak­ing mis­takes.

"It all de­pends how you look at it. Some­times I think I should have got­ten that busi­ness de­gree when I thought about it, but I fo­cused on the cre­ativ­i­ty of the busi­ness, and that's be­come valu­able to me. Busi­ness mis­takes are hard." Tanya Hol­land.

1 Be­ing an over­achiev­er and tak­ing on too much at once

Es­pe­cial­ly when first open­ing the busi­ness and not re­al­is­ing how much help you need. You re­alise you can't cook, keep books, man­age fa­cil­i­ties or run HR. The first year I got burned out and let go of bal­ance, even ex­er­cis­ing. That's some­thing I con­tin­ue to tell peo­ple: Stretch now! When you're young, stretch. I'm so glad I was a gym rat in my 20s, or I wouldn't be able to walk now.

2 Leav­ing a po­si­tion too soon

You have to fol­low your in­tu­ition. I've been in places where there was still some­thing else I could have learned, but I was frus­trat­ed be­cause I wasn't get­ting pro­mot­ed. You can learn from every move.

3 And al­so, stay­ing in a job too long

There's a chef, Patrick Clark, who told me the best chefs are the ones who have worked for many peo­ple in­stead of stay­ing in one place, be­cause you de­vel­op your own style. He al­so told me to leave New York... He said, "As a woman, you will prob­a­bly have more suc­cess leav­ing the city." I think he was right, too.

This was in 1995-1996. I was look­ing for a sous chef po­si­tion. I wasn't be­ing em­pow­ered at Mesa Grill and want­ed a kitchen to work in where I could be seen as a po­ten­tial leader. I was de­ter­mined to make it in NYC. I re­al­ly didn't want to leave, but ul­ti­mate­ly I had no choice as I couldn't grow there work­ing for oth­er peo­ple who put lim­i­ta­tions on me and my work based on what they were com­fort­able with.

I have al­ways been pas­sion­ate with a great work eth­ic, and I love to learn as much as I can about this in­dus­try and have worked in so many ca­pac­i­ties, but this has proven to be threat­en­ing to many of my male coun­ter­parts. Es­pe­cial­ly on the East Coast, I think be­cause of Al­ice (Wal­ters), Mary Sue and Su­san, Judy Rodgers, Joyce Gold­stein, Bar­bara Tropp, Traci Des Jardins, Nan­cy Oakes, etc out here, women lead­ers in the kitchen were just more known and ac­cept­ed. Times have clear­ly changed. I think things are a bit more open now, but yes, then.

There were a num­ber of women chef own­ers in San Fran­cis­co, Boston, LA, Seat­tle, etc but still on­ly a hand­ful in NYC. But now, there are more. Al­though times have changed, I still think it's eas­i­er out­side of NYC...It's a re­al­ly ex­pen­sive mar­ket to get in­to. I don't think I could have been as suc­cess­ful had I stayed in New York–my ca­reer re­al­ly blos­somed when I left. I had some me­dia suc­cess and op­por­tu­ni­ties in Boston, but it was re­al­ly when I moved to the Bay Area that I found my lane.

In NYC, I was on the Food Net­work and no one re­al­ly cared...I wasn't able to get any in­vestor's at­ten­tion...Again, those were the ear­ly days. But in the Bay, I was a big fish in a small­er pond, and there's a his­to­ry of pi­o­neer­ing and en­tre­pre­neur­ship out here...Think Al­ice Wa­ters and Cal­i­for­nia cui­sine, where­as in NYC, there's in­no­va­tion, but there's a lot of im­port­ing of cuisines from oth­er places. Al­ice (and her con­tem­po­raries) cre­at­ed some­thing.

I know there are great pi­o­neers and en­tre­pre­neurs in NYC like Dan­ny Mey­er and Drew Nieporent, both of whom I great­ly ad­mired, but it's dif­fer­ent out here.

4 Be­ing un­der­cap­i­talised.

This was an un­for­tu­nate mis­take, but we made it through. Not hav­ing sys­tems in place–you can nev­er an­tic­i­pate (every­thing that could go wrong).

5 Get­ting bogged down by the un­ex­pect­ed.

It's not even a ques­tion of mak­ing mis­takes...You just don't know. You can ask as many peo­ple as you want, but not every duck will be lined up. You have to look at mis­takes as an op­por­tu­ni­ty to learn. (foodand­wine.com)

�2 Fol­low Food&Wine on Twit­ter: @foodand­wine

and Tanya Hol­land @tanya­hol­land


Related articles

Sponsored

Weather

PORT OF SPAIN WEATHER

Sponsored