JavaScript is disabled in your web browser or browser is too old to support JavaScript. Today almost all web pages contain JavaScript, a scripting programming language that runs on visitor's web browser. It makes web pages functional for specific purposes and if disabled for some reason, the content or the functionality of the web page can be limited or unavailable.

Sunday, March 30, 2025

Lament for Laventille

...My Home On The Hill

by

Suzanne Sheppard
2073 days ago
20190727

A Guardian Me­dia Spe­cial Re­port

AN IN­NO­CENT KILLING

My job as an as­sign­ment ed­i­tor at the Guardian places me on the front lines of the dai­ly blood­let­ting across the coun­try. By the time I get to the of­fice in the morn­ing, my agen­da is al­ready chock-full with overnight gang-re­lat­ed and oth­er killings. Many rob­beries, bur­glar­ies, and vi­o­lent crimes fall by the way­side.

Two Fri­days ago, I was mon­i­tor­ing one of the dead­liest weeks of shoot­ing deaths when news of Mur­der Vic­tim No 21 came in. A PH dri­ver in St Barbs, Laven­tille—blast­ed at close range by a hail of bul­lets—was slumped be­hind the wheel of his black Nis­san Almera. Bul­let wounds punc­tured his neck and chest, spilling crim­son blood on his bright­ly coloured T-shirt.

A few hours lat­er, I head­ed out to a rou­tine ap­point­ment with my doc­tor, who al­so hap­pens to be the se­nior pas­tor of my church. Af­ter tak­ing a phone call, he turned to me and said, “They just killed Glo­ria’s son in St Barbs.”

The words pierced deep in­to my bel­ly. Mur­der Vic­tim No 21 was 41-year-old An­tho­ny Phillip Williams, son of Glo­ria Dick­son, a beloved mem­ber of our church. Williams, who al­so goes by the name An­to­nio Dick­son, might have been a vic­tim of mis­tak­en iden­ti­ty.

Williams’s mur­der had hit close to home and showed how deep Trinidad and To­ba­go had de­scend­ed in­to blood­shed and law­less­ness.

It was an­oth­er crime scene in Laven­tille where, by of­fi­cial ac­counts, some 1,318 have been killed in the last decade, more than 93 per cent from gun­shot wounds. That’s a year­ly av­er­age of 132 peo­ple in Laven­tille who are vi­o­lent­ly killed.

By in­ter­na­tion­al stan­dards, mur­der rate is cal­cu­lat­ed per 100,000 pop­u­la­tion.

Trinidad and To­ba­go has one of the high­est mur­der rates in the re­gion, about 35 for every 100,000 in­hab­i­tants of the is­lands.

Laven­tille’s crime rate—231 per 100,000 peo­ple if you crunch the num­bers—is more than six times T&T’s mur­der rate. Laven­tille’s mur­der rate is more than dou­ble the homi­cide rate of the most dan­ger­ous city in the world, Los Ca­bos in Mex­i­co, which has a rate of 111 per 100,000 in­hab­i­tants.

Af­ter Williams’ killing, my mind flashed on the num­ber of friends and rel­a­tives who have been slain in the last sev­er­al years. In the last 15 years, I knew at least eight vic­tims of mur­der. Many times, I have been with­in close range of killings. I have heard the fa­tal shots and have seen the bleed­ing corpse.

A few years ago, I sensed some­thing had gone hor­ri­bly wrong when I heard an­guished sobs from a cor­ri­dor right off the news­room. I rushed to see two col­leagues hold­ing up a dis­traught co-work­er.

I learned that Ju­nior Valen­tine, a se­nior su­per­vi­sor in our pro­duc­tion de­part­ment, some­one I had known since my ear­ly days in jour­nal­ism, had been shot five times at Men­tor Al­ley in Laven­tille. The po­lice said he was just out­side his home and that hap­pened to be the wrong place at the wrong time.

We felt help­less over his killing. At our of­fices on St Vin­cent Street, work stalled to a slow, ag­o­nis­ing pace that day, punc­tu­at­ed by prayers and lots of tears.

There have been oth­ers: the coun­cil­lor who was killed by crim­i­nals af­ter he re­sist­ed gang mem­bers’ pres­sure to bend the rules so that they could cre­ate ghost gangs and de­fraud the State; the UK-born but Tri­ni-to-the-bone jour­nal­ist who was bru­tal­ly mur­dered in her home; and a fe­male po­lice­woman—the close rel­a­tive of one of our church min­is­ters—whose body was fished out from the Gulf of Paria two years ago.

The dai­ly slaugh­ter in Laven­tille and its en­vi­rons of­ten forces me to pon­der: how did this once neigh­bourly place be­come a no-go zone, a place where al­most dai­ly gun­fire could cut down many peo­ple.

NO-GO ZONES

From a dis­tance, there is a rugged beau­ty about Laven­tille. The ran­dom way in which hous­es tum­ble down the slopes of the North­ern Range, punc­tu­at­ed oc­ca­sion­al­ly by green­ery, has been im­mor­talised in paint­ings and pho­tographs.

At clos­er range, re­al­i­ty hits hard in this com­mu­ni­ty of con­trasts. Mul­ti-sto­ried hous­es stand cheek-to-jowl with crum­bling wood­en chat­tel hous­es, paved two-way roads give way to nar­row dirt tracks or no roads at all, just long flights of con­crete stair­ways with hous­es on ei­ther side.

The views are as­tound­ing. If re­al es­tate agents had to write de­scrip­tions for list­ings here, they would crow: Best scenic views in T&T!!!

West­ward, there is Port-of-Spain. From my van­tage point off the La­dy Young Road, to­ward the south­east, you can see the dis­tant Tamana Hill in the Cen­tral Range. It is par­tic­u­lar­ly breath­tak­ing at night, il­lu­mi­nat­ed by the lights from thou­sands of build­ings be­low.

Back in the day, Laven­tille meant Suc­cess Vil­lage, Trou Macaque, and Pic­ton. Now, it en­velops, among oth­er places, East Dry Dri­ver, Cale­do­nia, Mary­land, Chi­napoo, and Mor­vant.

I live in Mor­vant, a bor­der­ing com­mu­ni­ty that con­nects with the wider Laven­tille, as do east Port-of-Spain and the up­per reach­es of Bel­mont.

Al­though the views are beau­ti­ful, the back­ground noise is not. The sounds, too of­ten, are blar­ing po­lice sirens and gun­fire from near­by neigh­bour­hoods. It is not pos­si­ble to dri­ve too far in any di­rec­tion with­out cross­ing so-called bor­der­lines and en­ter­ing a dan­ger zone.

Laven­til­leans have to con­form to a form of self-im­posed zon­ing. If you live in an area con­trolled by a gang, you dare not ven­ture in­to a ri­val’s ter­ri­to­ry, even though that may be the next street over. A few years ago, a garbage col­lec­tor was shot dead be­cause gang­sters per­ceived that he had come from a ri­val gang area.

Some chil­dren must be es­cort­ed to school and sport­ing ac­tiv­i­ties. Par­ents beg for trans­fers when their chil­dren are placed at schools in ar­eas con­trolled by ri­val gangs.

Dan­gers lurk every­where. At St Barb's Pri­ma­ry School, a teacher re­count­ed how she has had to at­tend the fu­ner­al of 24 stu­dents in the last 19 years. Three years ago, at Suc­cess Laven­tille Sec­ondary, lo­cat­ed be­tween war­ring gangs from Beetham Es­tate and the Laven­tille hills, two stu­dents on the way home from school were dragged out of a PH taxi and shot dead.

Even for long-time res­i­dents, fa­mil­iar­i­ty does not guar­an­tee safe­ty. In the hottest parts of this hot spot, walk along cer­tain streets and the many pairs of eyes fol­low­ing your every step could be ma­cos but are more like­ly look­outs for gang lead­ers. I of­ten pray that my car is not mis­tak­en for one be­long­ing to a gang­ster.

Stay­ing on your own turf does not en­sure safe­ty. In April, a stone’s throw from my home, a res­i­dent was gunned down as he played foot­ball in the park­ing lot of his apart­ment com­plex.

A mur­der was com­mit­ted not too far from my place of wor­ship. That was on a Sat­ur­day af­ter­noon in Sep­tem­ber 2015 when the sound of gun­shots in­ter­rupt­ed the fi­nal ses­sion of a con­fer­ence at the church au­di­to­ri­um. A few min­utes lat­er, po­lice of­fi­cers came in­to the church au­di­to­ri­um re­quest­ing the ser­vices of the se­nior pas­tor, Bish­op Dr David Ibeleme, who was al­so the dis­trict med­ical of­fi­cer for the area.

Just a stone’s throw away, the bul­let-rid­dled bod­ies of two men in a Nis­san B-14 had been dis­cov­ered. We lat­er found out that Amit Ram­lo­gan, 18 and Ka­reem Tur­ton, 28, were gunned down in a reprisal killing. The mur­der count for that day was four.

BET­TER DAYS ON THE HILL

I was born in Suc­cess Vil­lage, in the down-the-hill sec­tion of Laven­tille. Many res­i­dents of Suc­cess Vil­lage have lived up to the name. Kei­th Smith and Lennox Grant, two leg­endary top ed­i­tors of the Ex­press and Guardian, came from this com­mu­ni­ty of a few thou­sand peo­ple. Writ­ers Pe­ter Blood and Ter­ry Joseph, who chron­i­cled the vi­brant cul­ture of the hill and na­tion, al­so hailed from Suc­cess. Ter­ry and I used to say to each oth­er in mild jest but with great pride: “I from Laven­tille.”

I was part of an ex­tend­ed fam­i­ly, with cousins, un­cles and aunts all liv­ing un­der one roof. Doors and win­dows were left opened and un­locked all day—and even at night.

Chil­dren used to play in the streets, go for walks in all of those ar­eas “be­hind the bridge” and around the East Dry Riv­er that are now so-called hot spots. My moth­er would leave home alone so that she could meet friends at the movies or a ca­lyp­so tent. She would al­ways re­turn home safe­ly.

As a child, the threat of ban­dits and killers didn’t ex­ist. I feared on­ly the la­ga­hoos, soucouyants and as­sort­ment of jumbies that came out at night.

WHAT AILS LAVEN­TILLE

For its unswerv­ing loy­al­ty, Laven­tille should be the prized jew­el in the crown of the Peo­ple’s Na­tion­al Move­ment (PNM), which has al­ways count­ed res­i­dents to de­liv­er their two elec­toral seats. Even when the Na­tion­al Al­liance for Re­con­struc­tion (NAR) trounced the PNM 33-3 in 1986, Muriel Donowa-Mc­David­son and Mor­ris Mar­shall man­aged to hold on­to the Laven­tille seats for the PNM.

There is lit­tle to show for decades of be­ing the strong­hold of the po­lit­i­cal par­ty that has held pow­er longer and more of­ten than any oth­er in T&T’s his­to­ry. Op­po­si­tion par­ties have of­ten point­ed to the fact that des­per­ate eco­nom­ic con­di­tions of Laven­til­lians should make them ques­tion the PNM’s com­mit­ment.

They are not averse to em­ploy­ing the same strate­gies as the PNM in their ef­forts to loosen that par­ty’s grip on Laven­tille West and Laven­tille East/Mor­vant. With­out fail, every elec­tion sea­son brings can­di­dates from all sides, hand­ing out jer­seys and oth­er cam­paign good­ies from atop mu­sic trucks, try­ing to coax votes from res­i­dents with promis­es of bet­ter days.

They nev­er ma­te­ri­alise. Women still have to fill buck­ets at stand­pipes and walk a mile up the hill, chil­dren still study by can­dle and the bad­men with guns de­ter­mine who lives or dies.

Pover­ty and crime cre­ate fer­tile breed­ing grounds where crim­i­nals lure hun­gry, naive young peo­ple to their dark side.

LAVEN­TILLE IS EVERY­WHERE

LeRoy Clarke, one of our coun­try’s best known artists, has for the last sev­er­al years been paint­ing a se­ries about the idea of Laven­tille.

Dur­ing a re­cent ex­hi­bi­tion of Clark’s work, Fazal Ali, head of the Teach­ing Ser­vice Com­mis­sion, made this ob­ser­va­tion: “Clarke’s con­tin­u­ing project of can­vass­es around the idea of Laven­tille made him see that Laven­tille is here, Laven­tille is there, Laven­tille is every­where.”

“Vi­o­lence, fear, pover­ty, hell and un­der­achieve­ment have no ge­og­ra­phy,” he said.

His words ring with a sober­ing truth. Laven­tille is of­ten blamed for colonis­ing hous­ing de­vel­op­ments across the coun­try with vi­o­lence and law­less­ness. A fre­quent com­ment is: “When you miss a ban­dit from Laven­tille is be­cause he move to...” Fill in the blanks with Mal­oney, La Hor­quet­ta, Orop­une, or any oth­er high-crime com­mu­ni­ty.

It tells the ex­tent to which this place, birth­place of the steel­pan and oth­er ex­pres­sions of our cre­ativ­i­ty, is now seen as the source of the con­ta­gion that has tak­en over every part of T&T.

YOU CAN RUN BUT…

I of­ten think about how my par­ents, both teach­ers, left Laven­tille for a sin­gle-lev­el bun­ga­low in Cas­cade more than 40 years ago. Af­ter see­ing in­creas­es in pet­ty crime, they want­ed a safer place for me and my two younger sib­lings. My fa­ther died in 2011, and the house re­mains oc­cu­pied by my moth­er and sib­lings.

Now Cas­cade is no longer safe. The house has had to con­form with the times. Se­cu­ri­ty alarms have been in­stalled to sound when in­trud­ers en­ter the premis­es. Win­dows have been re­in­forced with bur­glarproof­ing. That hasn’t kept the bur­glars out.

Not far away in St Ann's, the bru­tal 2017 mur­der of oc­to­ge­nar­i­an Claire Broad­bridge, for­mer cu­ra­tor of the Na­tion­al Mu­se­um, was one of sev­er­al killings that rocked the com­mu­ni­ty in the past few years. There is no longer any to place to run. And for the de­cent hard-work­ing peo­ple who live in Laven­tille, there are mea­gre op­tions.

While Laven­tille de­scends fur­ther in­to chaos, the coun­try is miss­ing out on the vast po­ten­tial of the peo­ple on The Hill—the same po­ten­tial that gave us the steel­pan, top writ­ers, sport­ing he­roes, and mu­si­cal leg­ends.

To ig­nore what ails Laven­tille would be to the detri­ment of our na­tion. There’s no way to fix Trinidad and To­ba­go if we don’t fix Laven­tille, be­cause now, Laven­tille is every­where.

Post­script

An­tho­ny’s fu­ner­al

The fu­ner­al for An­tho­ny Williams last Thurs­day was a heart-wrench­ing af­fair. His moth­er, Glo­ria Dick­son, a usu­al­ly cheer­ful woman, shed tears but man­aged to main­tain some com­po­sure. His wid­ow, Aval­on, and her chil­dren could not con­tain their grief. Their wails filled the sanc­tu­ary at Vic­to­ry Chris­t­ian Out­reach Church in Bel­mont. Many loved ones took the podi­um to pay trib­ute to Williams, de­scrib­ing him as a de­vot­ed hus­band and fa­ther. They men­tioned that he was nev­er af­fil­i­at­ed with gangs and had lived a clean and de­cent life. On Face­book, Glo­ria Dick­son found the strength to write: “Sweet Je­sus, on­ly you alone know. For­give them for they don’t know what they have done.”


Related articles

Sponsored

Weather

PORT OF SPAIN WEATHER

Sponsored