San Fernando is always lively by day but is practically dead at night.
Apart from the bustle of the street food haven at Cross Crossing, the main arteries of the city become dismal at nights.
Cognisant of the yesteryears when the crowd thronged San Fernando for its nightlife, San Fernandians are now on a mission to revitalise the city and reverse its decline. It is a massive transformation project which is expected to cost millions and boost tourism.
This revitalisation comes in the form of the long-promised San Fernando Waterfront project which San Fernandians believe will be the catalyst to transform the industrial capital.
Prominent San Fernandian Keith Belgrove, who is the CEO of Belgroves Group of Companies and president of the Association of Funeral Professionals of Trinidad and Tobago (AFPTT) remembers the time when Coffee Street was a buzz of activity.
"A few decades ago it was a cultural arena filled with talented street activities, small traders, food galore, and these cultural NGOs brought in tourists into the city. Today Coffee Street is dead. We need to revitalise Coffee Street to what it was before," Belgrove said.
He said apart from its wealth of talented people, San Fernando also harbours a rich history in its cemeteries.
"There is such a wealth of history in our cemeteries and our young people need to have some knowledge of what exists. I want to encourage the development of cemetery tourism," Belgrove said.
The Roodal and Paradise cemeteries have the tombstones of people buried since the 19th century.
Belgroves believes that these tombstones should be incorporated into San Fernando's rich legacy which will bring about tourists from across the world.
Like most San Fernandians, Belgrove is eager for the completion of the waterfront project.
"The waterfront is an old project but I want to thank the mayor for embracing this project and starting the process of documenting and preserving some of the ancient relics we have at King's Wharf," Belgroves said.
Regrello, who grew up in San Fernando, also remembers the days when San Fernando was the epitome of nightlife.
"It was in the late 50s into the 60s. Back then, San Fernando had very colourful characters. The sailors from the oil tankers and vessels anchored outside of the Pointe-a-Pierre refinery would come ashore in their uniforms. There were well-known ladies to service these men, women like Beril, Bodi, and Big Six. We also had the more flambouyant ones like Constance and Hinds who made King's Wharf come alive," Regrello said.
He said the Dutchy Brothers played off New Street.
"They were a live brass band and they had their own club. The wharf was surrounded by shops and bars. The Bamboo Inn was opposite to where Republic Bank was located. We had popular roti shops and the infamous Black Cat Hotel," Regrello said.
With the shutting down of the train, Regrello said the busy nightlife came slowly to an end.
"When the train was removed the people who worked the train continued to live there. Later on, the area became inhabited by fisherfolk who built small huts along the area where the train once passed," Rergrello said.
Under the late prime minister Patrick Manning, all of the people living on the wharf were given government housing as preparation works for the waterfront project began. However, Regrello said the Government lapsed in dismantling the sheds and over time the area became populated again.
Over the past few years, more plyboard houses have sprung up on the waterfront.
Despite this, Regrello said they were moving ahead with the project.
Earlier this year, DRAVOSA Ltd, a company from Madrid, Spain, was awarded a contract for the design and construction of the reclamation of 3.8 hectares of land at the wharf at a cost of $57 million. This project is expected to be completed by 2020.
Design works for the reclamation has started and will be completed within the last quarter of 2019.
The project includes the establishment of a small fishing facility and jetty along Hatter’s Beach, the construction of a mixed-use development inclusive of medium-income housing at Lady Hailes Avenue utilising public/private partnership arrangements, and the development of a multi-storey administrative complex at Chancery Lance, San Fernando. There will be an upgrade to Plaza San Carlos, which includes several historic buildings (see box below).
President of the Greater San Fernando Chamber of Commerce Kiran Singh said the project will generate employment and boost commercial activity in the city. He said the wharf will be the hub for entertainment with the preservation of historical spaces and the construction of leisure facilities which will create a tourist hub.
Historic buildings to be restored (details courtesy San Fernando City Corporation)
General Stores—Constructed in 1870, General Stores was once owned and operated by Elvira Glassen as an entertainment venue known as the Ice Establishment. By 1874 the building was used to sell Usine Ste Madeleine sugar and was subsequently sold by Glassen in 1879 to James Wharton.
By 1987 the building became an outlet for selling general merchandise called Alston and Company, which is now part of the ANSA McAL group. The building itself is architecturally notable as it is the only structure in the area with a mansard roof. It has the original wood timber ceiling, floor structure and flooring on the interior.
Happy Corner has been at the centre of entertainment and hospitality since the 1870s. It provided refreshment and accommodation during the annual San Fernando Regatta. The building was also owned and operated by Elvira Glassen and originally stood at the water's edge which changed in 1883-4 when the wharf was extended into the bay. It retained its original use as a hotel and bar with various names including the Black Cat Bar, Sea View, and Brittannia. The balcony is a key character-defining feature with wooden fretwork, gingerbread and elaborate balustrades. It retains the original features including first and attic level windows.
Thorpes Garage—These are the last and remaining warehouses of San Fernando which form a unique block now at the edge of the neighbourhood. The buildings were used for storing sugar to be shipped abroad and were owned by the firms of George Lambie, Leon Agostini, Turnbull Ross and William Tennant Agency. Over the years these buildings were sold piecemeal to Tate and Lyle which later became Caroni (1975) Limited.
Tenants Building—Built in 1911 for Williams Tennant as a commercial mercantile store, the building was used as a supply depot for both the fishing industry at the wharf and the agricultural estates located inland who needed the port to trade. In 1932, the building was leased by the Tennant family to local auto dealers Neal and Massy. In the mid-1950s the building was sold to the Government.
Old Post office—The postal service in San Fernando began between 1851 and 1852. During this period the mail arrived by sea and was distributed. In 1866, the postal service was inaugurated and in 1924 it was moved to High Street.
Fish market—Throughout the 19th century both the agriculture and fishing industries thrived and the port was expanded to include a fish market.
Railway station—The first government railway began in 1882. The current structure was completed in 1901 and remained in operation until the last train arrived in San Fernando in 1968. The structural walls remain and the building deserves protected landmark status.
See Page C6