Shrouded in mystery, volcanoes across the world have been connected with mythology, mysticism, and religion since ancient times. In the case of Devil's Woodyard volcano in Princes Town, the demonic oppressor Satan the Devil, gave that volcano its name.
But deep in the southwestern peninsula in a forested valley amidst the coconut trees of Columbia's Estate in Cedros, there is one volcano, called Mother Balka or Balka Devi, which is revered and worshipped as a goddess by Hindus.
Every year, either in the month of April or May, the Balka Devi volcano attracts scores of Hindus in a pilgrimage hosted by the Hindu Festivals Society.
Recognised as part of the collection of the L'Envieusse mud volcanoes by geologists, the Balka Devi volcano and mandir is listed as a heritage site by the National Trust. The immaculate mandir sits on the edge of the volcano's crater.
Unlike other volcanoes such as the Lagoon Bouffe, Rock Dome Mud Volcano, and Marac Mud volcano, Balka Devi volcano is quite popular. Frequent tours are done almost every week and devotees often go to the site on quiet days to enjoy the ambience. When the Guardian Media team visited the site last week, a bush fire had razed the lands around the site. While smoke wafted inside the mandir, caretakers continued their daily tasks of keeping the temple clean.
Curator Roopah Maharaj said worship of the volcano started since the days of indentureship by her grandmother Patangia Nakar, who came from India. In a story handed down through oral history, Maharaj said her grandmother was eight years old when she came to Trinidad with her mother aboard the SS Ganges on April 22, 1917. This was the year indentureship ended. By then, between the period 1845 and 1917, a total of 143,939 Indians had migrated to Trinidad under the system of Indian indentureship to provide labour to the British colonial masters.
Maharaj said her ancestors arrived at Columbus Bay and were sent to work in the sugar estates of Cedros.
"My grandmother told us she knew of volcanoes in India and when they saw the volcano in Columbia Estate, they began doing pooja to appease it," Maharaj said. She noted that Indian indentured immigrants got ten-acre parcels of lands in lieu of a return passage to India and many of them settled on the estates.
"My grandmother used to speak Hindi and she told us we needed to continue doing pooja for Mother Balka," she said.
Regarded as a reincarnation of the Hindu goddess Durga, the protective mother of the universe, Maharaj said they offer the volcano milk, water, food, flowers, and grains as a form of appeasement to prevent eruptions.
The trees surrounding the volcano are also revered. Swaddled in glittering cloth, the trees represent the nine goddesses of the Hindu faith, Maharaj said.
Asked whether she was afraid that the volcano will erupt one day and destroy the temple, Maharaj said, "In the zoo, even the wildest animal is tamed. Mother Balka is the earth. This is the form of Durga Mata. She will not hurt us once we do what is right."
Asked whether Balka Devi was officially recognised as a goddess in the Holy scriptures, Maharaj said yes.
"Balka is not in the Ramayan or Mahabharat but it is in the Shiv Pooran, a Holy scripture. When you are doing this puja you are referring to the Earth. This is what Pundit Narad Gosine told us," she explained.
Maharaj said she was certain that once they took care of the volcano, it will never erupt.
"Here we live because of her (Mother Balka's) grace. The sea is close to here and it wouldn’t take much to break off this part off the island from the rest of Trinidad. But why hasn't it happened? We have no earthquake, volcano eruption or even heavy rainfall in this part of the island. Here we cool like Goocool. We know once we do our pooja, we will never have an eruption," Maharaj said.
Her daughter Nirmala Maharaj said during the heydays of the coconut industry, worshippers were able to drive to the Columbian Estate to offer pooja. However, in 2009, The Hindu Festival Society led by president Thirbhawon Seegobin and the Brahm Sabha built a shrine at the volcano's crater.
On its website, the Hindu Festivals Society said the Balka Devi Puja seeks to restore equilibrium in the inner earth so that people could be protected from the violent effects of earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, tsunamis, and fires.
"This spiritual pilgrimage to Cedros to perform the Balka Devi puja is a colourful and mystical event that generates reverence in all for our Divine Mata Durga. Devotees sing songs of praise and worship in their hearts saying "Oh Divine and Supreme Mother Durga, you who have power over the Universe and over the inner earth, we offer you gifts of love and faith from our hearts and souls. Please protect us from all the destructive forces that abound. Protect us from the power of fire, from the power of the oceans and from the power of the wind. Keep our families, our communities and our nation safe. We beseech you, Durga Mata, be merciful to us your humble devotees," the article stated.
The puja is completed with the ceremonial planting of a jhandi (flag) in the mouth of the bubbling volcano. The jhandi is symbolic of the peace, harmony, and equilibrium that the volcano is believed to generate.
During the dry season, Nirmal walks on the volcanic sludge and pulls out weeds which grow on the periphery of the crater.
For the tourists who come to the volcanic site, Nirmala has a collection of artefacts including Fools Gold found at the Galfa volcano, an old kerosene and oil lamp, a two-way hand saw, hatchets, hammers, pokney to stir flames in a firewood oven, a grass-knife and several other items which were once used by Cedros residents.
Another resident, Sunil Sookram, from Granville Village, said people believe that the volcanic mud has healing powers. People who suffer from arthritis, skin ailments, and heart disease use the mud on their skin as a means of healing.
Councillor for Cedros Shankar Teelucksingh said the Balka Devi site, whilst recognised as a heritage site by the National Trust, could be marketed internationally as a tourist site.
He said the ministry should do scientific testing on the components of the volcanic mud which many people use for its healing properties.
"People could attest that the volcanic mud is good for medicinal uses. I think we could capitalise on that and market this site for local and international tourism," Teelucksingh added.
He said the Balka Devi shrine was a natural tourist attraction and like other Caribbean nations including St Lucia, the volcanoes can be an ideal source of foreign exchange.
Geoscientist at Touchstone Exploration Xavier Moonan said the Balka Devi volcano was part of a collection of mud volcanoes which tend to form small pools.
"Collectively they are called the L'Envieusse mud volcanoes. This includes the Columbia Estate mud volcano which erupted in 1966 and Lam Vierge mud volcano," Moonan said. Like other volcanoes in T&T, Moonan said the L'Envieusse mud volcanoes have enormous tourism potential.