As the preparations for Carnival 2025 begin to ramp up, a call has come for a more standardised approach for compensation for mas designers.
Entrepreneur and founder of the Make it Happen Network, Andre Sealey, has developed a draft framework entitled “Compensation and Intellectual Rights for Carnival Costume Designers in Trinidad & Tobago: A Call for Reform.”
Sealey is hoping the document, can prompt a public consultation on the topic.
In a summary of the proposal, Sealey said, “The creative sector in Trinidad and Tobago, especially Carnival costume designers, has faced significant challenges due to some outdated and non-existent business models for the rightful compensation of Carnival costume designers. The existing models fail to acknowledge designing as a legitimate career and do not ensure rightful compensation.”
He added, “This issue is not only detrimental to the designers but also hampers the progress of the Orange Economy—a sector where creativity and intellectual property are key drivers of value.”
In an interview with the Business Guardian, he explained that his decision to develop the draft policy was inspired by and interaction with designer Nikitha Cornwall, who informed him of various challenges designers faced.
This was followed with conversations he had with various designers in the industry who expressed several concerns particularly for lesser established names in the industry.
“They said that’s a big issue. One designer getting paid this amount, while they feel some of them undervalued, some of them feel like they charge too much. It’s one price in Trinidad, another price somewhere else, and there was no equilibrium. And there was no framework to standardise the process in any shape or form,” said Sealey, who said his work with peers in the legal fraternity further prompted his decision to develop the framework.
“I worked with a lot of attorneys in my previous incarnation. And I said, Well, that’s an easy fix, you know, and I went home and I said, Okay, I drew from the fact that in the legal fraternity, they have a framework. If they have worked X number of years that they are recommended to charge this amount. And as the years go by, the fee goes up as well. So I kind of used that as the backbone,” said Sealey.
He said he then took into consideration other factors, which would influence compensation for designers.
“Because that would only consider one variable being the experience, but as a designer, there are a lot more variables to consider. So I thought about what made sense and said okay, the band size, the cost of the costume, the production costs, and I put all those things together. And that’s kind of where it stemmed from. It’s problem solving and just addressing so many issues of my closest friends at the time,” said Sealey.
He said the proposed framework and guidance note would call for band leaders to adopt a transparent, case-by-case approach when determining compensation, considering seven key factors such as the designer’s experience, their social media influence and impact, the selling price of the costume, production costs, the size and length of time in existence of the band and geographical location.
Sealey recommended that a priority should be placed on the number of years experience that each designer has attained in the industry, while taking into consideration the remaining six variables, hence a weighting system should be applied across all variables.
He said the initiative aims to reinforce costume designing as a legitimate career and to introduce monetisation opportunities based on designers’ intellectual property. The framework, he said, would provide band leaders with tools and methodologies to establish a comprehensive compensation system for costume prototypes.
He said, “It emphasises the need for a fair and transparent approach, considering various factors to determine appropriate compensation.”
Sealey said he hoped to make the framework public at the end of the band launch season so that it could be properly implemented ahead of the upcoming Carnival season.
The key components of the proposal are:
• Monetary compensation: Determined by factors such as design complexity, material costs, craftsmanship, and the designer’s experience;
• Intellectual property royalty programme: Designers receive a percentage of costume sales, fostering recognition of their intellectual contributions.
He said this would encourage a collaborative and inclusive environment, ensuring that both designers and band leaders benefit from a standardised compensation regime. Sealey agreed that as it stands, the lack of a standardised framework has led to significant variability and subjectivity in designer fees. He said that with standardised remuneration, there would be the fostering of healthy competition while also encouraging strict criteria for fee determination.
Additionally, he felt it would reduce subjectivity in pricing while promoting greater inclusion in the compensation decision-making process.
“The ultimate goal is to ensure designers are adequately compensated not only for their designs but also for their intellectual property. This includes implementing a royalty programme, allowing designers to earn a percentage of sales from their costumes. The proposed fee schedule and royalty programme aim to be consistent with industry benchmarks and global standards.”
Recommendations for the remuneration framework include:
• Fixed fee: A set royalty fee of 1-5 per cent from costume sales, based on industry standards;
• Variable fee: A scalable fee based on expected costume sales, prioritising the designer’s experience.
He said the framework would also address some controversies that had been seen in previous seasons where designers were dismissed or overlooked for doing work for multiple bands.
He said the proposal would provide for designers to have the flexibility to work with multiple bands via non-exclusive contracts unless engaged in an exclusive contract, which he said, should come with additional compensation.
“All agreements should clearly outline terms, including compensation, intellectual property rights and confidentiality clauses,” said Sealey, who believes that band leaders and even the National Carnival Commission should adopt some, if not all of the proposed methodologies cited in his framework.
He said, “The guidance note can set a new standard in the Carnival industry, emphasising the value of intellectual property and ensuring fair exchange of value between designers and band leaders. By adopting these recommendations, the Carnival industry in Trinidad & Tobago can create a more equitable and sustainable environment for its creative talents.”
When contacted, most band leaders told the Business Guardian that they would prefer to see the proposal document before commenting on it.
However, Trinidad and Tobago Carnival Bands Association (TTCBA) President Mark Ayen said the association would be open to any such discussion once it was in beneficial to stakeholders and would push the industry in a positive direction.