In a few days time thousands of Hindu pilgrims will travel to Siparia to "see" Siparee Mai. This annual pilgrimage has been taking place for over 200 years. The beggars and pseudo-beggars will begin traipsing in from Tuesday, a few as early as Monday. Hindus will come on Good Friday in their thousands as usual from midnight until about 3 pm. Many of them will be tired from the travelling and waiting in the long line for hours. Why do they make this demanding journey annually? Why do they wait so long?The Hindu answer to this is they are coming for darshan. Darshan (or darsan) is blessing that comes with seeing and being seen by the Divine.\The term is explained in detail in a wonderful little book called Darsan–Seeing the Divine Image in India, by Diana Eck, professor of Hinduism at Harvard University.Darshan derives from the Hindu understanding that the Divine dwells in a special way in the image (murti) without ceasing to be omnipresent.
Eck explains this well: "Since, in the Hindu understanding, the deity is present in the image, the visual apprehension of the image is charged with religious meaning. Beholding the image is an act of worship, and through the eyes one gains the blessings of the divine."Eck expands the term beyond the primary meaning to include other understandings present in Hindu pilgrimage. For instance, darshan also applies to places: "Similarly, when Hindus travel on pilgrimage, as they do by the millions each month of the year, it is for darsan of the place of pilgrimage or for the darsan of its famous deities." Hence places like Mt St Benedict and La Divina Pastora RC Church as well as noted Hindu sites in Trinidad are places where Hindus go to receive darshan or divine blessing.Eck also includes another important point: "In addition to darsan of temple images and sacred places, Hindus also value the darsan of holy persons, such as sants (saints), sadhus (holy men) and sannnyasins (renouncers).
When Mahatma Gandhi travelled through India, tens of thousands of people would gather wherever he stopped in order to 'take his darsan'."In this latter sense, darsan is a term that can be applied to La Divina Pastora (The Holy Shepherdess), the patron saint of the Catholic community of Siparia and of the town as implied by the term Siparee Ke Mai or "Mother of Siparia."
We need to be mindful of a theological technicality. Although Hindus worship God in feminine forms as Divine Mother (Mai/Mata), Mary is a saint, the holiest among them–O Sanctissima–but still a saint. She is not divine even though Hindus may regard her as such. As Queen of the Saints she is a powerful figure in Catholic spirituality for conveying blessings from God.
This sensibility is behind the controversial title "Mary, Mediatrix of all graces." She is commonly regarded as a "dispenser of grace" and we ask her to give us "graces and blessings" even while we hold God the Father alone as the source of all grace and who dispenses that grace to us through his Son Jesus Christ. This kind of "grace giving" is associated with all Catholic saints, albeit with less intensity.
I think in Siparia Mary confers darshan on pilgrims under both titles–the Catholic title "La Divina Pastora" but more inclusively under the title "Siparee Mai" which has a more universal, cultural and nationalist appeal. In fact for well over 100 years the week before the feast day is called Siparia Fete Week or even earlier, The Coolie Fete, highlighting the impact of the Hindus on the Catholic feast.La Divina Pastora is truly Mother of Siparia–Siparee Ke Mai and Mother of all peoples of T&T since she is visited by all religious groups and races. There are many people, including Catholics, who do not know who La Divina Pastora is but the term Siparee Mai always rings a bell.There is an intimacy and special affection conveyed by the word "Mai." In relation to "Mai" we are all children. People at least know this title has something to do with Siparia.The name elicits financial generosity and pleasant comments from them for she is their Mother too.
I cannot leave this topic of darshan without mentioning the eyes. It is harder I think for Catholics to understand this since it does not appear to be as entrenched in Catholic spirituality.
Eck quotes a former professor of Sanskrit at Harvard, Daniel H H Ingalls who says: "One must suppose that the language of the eyes was more advanced in ancient India than it is with us." Eyes play a big part in Hindu worship and the eyes of a murti are among its most prominent features. Great care is placed in shaping and colouring the eyes in murtis. Sometimes the eyes are unduly large. Eck notes: "Even after the breath of life (prana) was established in the image there was the ceremony in which the eyes were ritually opened with a golden needle or with the final stroke of a paintbrush."
For anyone who has seen Indian movies, the eyes play a pivotal role in dance generally and particularly Indian classical dance and religious drama.Eck quotes art historian Stella Kramrisch: "Seeing, according to Indian notions, is a going forth of the sight towards the object. Sight touches it and acquires its form. Touch is the ultimate connection by which the visible yields to being grasped. While the eye touches the object, the vitality that pulsates in it is communicated..."Something similar takes place in Siparia. Because of the danger posed by drug addicts and overly adventurous pilgrims we had to erect a wrought iron gate in front of La Divina Pastora's shrine. Many people gather in front the gate to look at her. Many pilgrims, including those of the Siparia church community, often make comments about the La Divina Pastora's eyes. They want to see her and they behave as if she sees them. There is visual touching and communication taking place and an appeal for blessing. This is darshan. And it is more expressly so for Hindus who believe that the deity inheres in the image and is actually in visual contact with them.
Darshan must not end in darshan. Then it becomes dead devotional romanticism. After Hindu pujas ie rituals whereby they receive darshan, food and drink are always given and prasad (sweet, floury raisined delicacy) shared. Darshan therefore ends in nourishment and sustenance ie in the fulfillment of Hindu social and religious obligations (dharma). There is a connection here with the Catholic Eucharist (Mass) which I cannot explore now.In a few weeks' time thousands of Catholics will be coming to Siparia to do their own form of darshan. It should be an opportunity to see how both festivals–Good Friday for Hindus and La Divina Pastora Feastday (or Siparee Mai Ke Mela�Festival of the Mother of Siparia)–contain shared religious meaning in the service of hospitality, respect, theological exchange and peacemaking.This too is evangelisation–the proclamation of the Good News of Jesus Christ.
Fr Martin Sirju
Parish Priest, Siparia