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Friday, April 4, 2025

Cheese made in Grande Riviere

...T&T com­mer­cial­ly prepped to be­come part of an age-old tra­di­tion

by

20130126

Har­vati, Alver­ca, Pep­per Jack, Ve­na­co...its name is as var­ied as its taste. There are Web sites ded­i­cat­ed to it. So­ci­eties have been cre­at­ed in its ho­n­our. Po­ems have been ded­i­cat­ed to its great taste. Now T&T is com­mer­cial­ly prepped to be­come a part of the age old tra­di­tion of cheese mak­ing.

Al­though the ex­act date of when the first block of cheese was pro­duced is un­cer­tain, some sug­gest cheese was made from as ear­ly as 4,000 BC. Ac­cord­ing to the In­ter­na­tion­al Dairy Foods As­so­ci­a­tion Web site, lore sug­gests that an Ara­bi­an mer­chant who placed his milk sup­ply in a pouch made of a sheep's stom­ach first found that af­ter trav­el­ling in the sun, his milk sep­a­rat­ed in­to curd and whey (the two main el­e­ments in cheese pro­duc­tion).

The Web site said fur­ther: "Trav­ellers from Asia are be­lieved to have brought the art of cheese mak­ing to Eu­rope. In fact, cheese was made in many parts of the Ro­man Em­pire when it was at its height. The Ro­mans, in turn, in­tro­duced cheese mak­ing to Eng­land.

Dur­ing the Mid­dle Ages–from the de­cline of the Ro­man Em­pire un­til the dis­cov­ery of Amer­i­ca–cheese was made and im­proved by the monks in the monas­ter­ies of Eu­rope. For ex­am­ple, Gor­gonzo­la was made in the Po Val­ley in Italy in 879 AD, and Italy be­came the cheese-mak­ing cen­tre of Eu­rope dur­ing the 10th cen­tu­ry. Roque­fort was al­so men­tioned in the an­cient records of the monastery at Con­ques, France as ear­ly as 1070."

In the sleepy, qui­et and home­ly town of Grande Riv­iere, known for its leatherback tur­tles, Piero Guer­ri­ni, orig­i­nal­ly from Italy, works qui­et­ly but sus­tain­ably. His con­cern is to cre­ate some­thing that is not on­ly nour­ish­ing for the peo­ple of Grande Riv­iere that he has come to know and clear­ly loves but in the age of food un­cer­tain­ty, to cre­ate some­thing that the peo­ple on T&T's north coast­can sur­vive on if food tru­ly be­came scarce.

His back­ground eas­i­ly tells why he would con­sid­er cheese mak­ing; he grew up on a farm with a moth­er who made ri­cot­ta and his busi­ness part­ner, on­ly iden­ti­fied as Mas­si­mo, comes from an Ital­ian fam­i­ly whose cheese-mak­ing knowl­edge goes back three gen­er­a­tions.

On Thurs­day the T&T Guardian vis­it­ed Guer­ri­ni, cu­ri­ous to learn of his cheese-mak­ing busi­ness. The pa­per com­mu­ni­cat­ed ex­ten­sive­ly with Guer­ri­ni when tragedy struck the small Grande Riv­iere com­mu­ni­ty, when hun­dreds of leatherback tur­tles were killed in an at­tempt to cor­rect a me­an­der­ing riv­er.

A five-minute dri­ve away from Guer­ri­ni's ho­tel Mt Plaisir, tucked qui­et­ly away, past a duck and chick­en farm, past his neigh­bours who he waves to as he heads to the 15-acre prop­er­ty which hous­es the two-lot build­ing from which Guer­ri­ni pro­duces ten types of lo­cal cheeses (hand­made moz­zarel­la, pro­vola bian­ca, pro­vola ri­bi­ena, ri­cot­ta, casatel­la among oth­ers) as well as yo­gurt.

The ex­te­ri­or looked no dif­fer­ent from a three-bed­room home but on en­ter­ing the two-room build­ing, paint­ed and tiled white, it ap­peared clin­i­cal, al­most ster­ile. The stain­less steel equip­ment added to the sur­gi­cal feel of the space. When Guer­ri­ni donned his white coat and ga­losh­es, one could not shake the feel­ing that some type of an op­er­a­tion was about to oc­cur.

Al­though there was a steril­i­ty to the at­mos­phere there was al­so the un­de­ni­able pas­sion an artist pos­sess­es for his art. He moved with pre­ci­sion, en­sur­ing the ma­chines were turned on and all was in its place. With a small hose, Guer­ri­ni and his as­sis­tant con­stant­ly washed with chlo­rine and fil­tered wa­ter the equip­ment, molds and uten­sils used in the large, tiled room in which the cheese is pre­pared.

Creamy, drip­ping moz­zarel­la

Dur­ing the al­most three-hour process he cre­at­ed creamy, drip­ping moz­zarel­la and told the sto­ry of why and how. His love for cheese was ev­i­dent as he bit in­to the moz­zarel­la and fed the re­porter a piece, beam­ing with pride at the qual­i­ty of the fin­ished prod­uct. On April 1, 2012, Dolce Valle (the reg­is­tered name for Guer­ri­ni's line of di­ary prod­ucts) was of­fi­cial­ly born, but from as ear­ly as Sep­tem­ber 2011 he was mak­ing home made moz­zarel­la from his kitchen at Mt Plaisir.

He said, "The idea came from see­ing all the buf­fa­lo in T&T and won­der­ing why no one was do­ing some­thing with the milk." Al­though he cur­rent­ly us­es cow's milk to pro­duce the range of cheeses and yo­gurts, he hopes some­day to ful­ly utilise the buf­fa­lo milk to cre­ate cheese and oth­er prod­ucts.

The en­tire start-up cap­i­tal for the busi­ness cost him $1.5 mil­lion (TT). He im­port­ed his equip­ment from Italy, which has ap­prox­i­mate­ly 450 years of cheese-mak­ing knowl­edge. He be­gan the cheese-mak­ing process by pump­ing the 150 litres of milk from the milk bulk cool­er which main­tains the milk's tem­per­a­ture at three to five de­grees cel­sius or ap­prox­i­mate­ly 34 to 36 de­grees Fahren­heit. The milk cool­er, Guer­ri­ni said, keeps the milk ag­i­tat­ed so it does not set­tle.

The milk was then strained and trans­ferred in­to a large white con­tain­er. An acid­i­ty test was con­duct­ed to as­cer­tain the age and au­then­tic­i­ty of the milk. Af­ter the test the milk was pas­teurised. It was then heat­ed to 52 de­grees cel­sius.

Through a process of cool­ing and by adding cul­ture, the chem­i­cal process to be­gin the for­ma­tion of curd was be­gun, ren­net was added to act as a co­ag­u­lant (one should wait 20-30 min­utes be­fore adding ren­net). Af­ter the ren­net was added, and 20-30 min­utes went by, curd be­gan to form at the top as the whey set­tled at the bot­tom. Dif­fer­ent types of cheeses form in dif­fer­ent ways, for ex­am­ple, ri­cot­ta is formed us­ing the whey, Guer­ri­ni in­formed.

Lin­ing plates in T&T's finest restau­rants

Guer­ri­ni's 30 gram balls of moz­zarel­la line plates in T&T's finest restau­rants–Bu­zo, Chaud and Jaf­fa. But like any good busi­ness­man, Guer­ri­ni un­der­stands that ex­pan­sion and di­ver­si­fi­ca­tion are key. He said he was look­ing to ex­pand his mar­ket through­out the Caribbean, Bar­ba­dos and Grena­da among oth­ers.

The sale of his cheeses and yo­gurts earns ap­prox­i­mate­ly half a mil­lion dol­lars per year.He said, how­ev­er, he is yet to earn a prof­it and hopes to break even from the ini­tial $1.5 mil­lion in­vest­ment in ap­prox­i­mate­ly five years.

Be­side the di­ver­si­fi­ca­tion of the prod­ucts (mak­ing ravi­o­li and us­ing the whey as fer­tilis­er for a farm and an­i­mals among oth­er things), he hopes to add lo­cal flavour to the line of cheeses and yo­gurt, like shadon beni to the cheese and pom­mer­ac to his yo­gurt.

He said there was cur­rent­ly on­ly one chal­lenge which stands in his way and that is the cost of milk. He said he hopes Food Pro­duc­tion Min­is­ter De­vant Ma­haraj, who vis­it­ed Guer­ri­ni last week, is tru­ly able to as­sist with pro­vid­ing a sub­sidy on milk which would make it com­pet­i­tive and able to be on shelves in T&T's su­per­mar­kets.

But the cost of milk has not im­ped­ed Guer­ri­ni from putting in­to mo­tion the re­al­i­sa­tion of hav­ing his cheeses among oth­er things on the shelves in T&T's su­per­mar­kets. He has and is await­ing health in­spec­tion and the ac­com­pa­ny­ing cer­tifi­cate of re­sale to be in su­per­mar­kets. He plans, he said, to move from pro­duc­ing an 800 litre per week of milk to the full ca­pac­i­ty of 2,000. This, he hopes, would oc­cur by April or May of this year.

But Guer­ri­ni said he has no wish to be­come a huge in­dus­tri­al cheese pro­duc­er. He wants his la­bel to be one line which reads: "Milk, salt and love and care."

Hav­ing worked as an in­ter­na­tion­al pho­to jour­nal­ist where he wit­nessed wide­spread hunger in many parts of the world, he ex­pressed hope that his cheese-mak­ing busi­ness would as­sist in re­vers­ing the de­pen­den­cy many Caribbean so­ci­eties have on for­eign im­ports.

Al­ways with sus­tain­abil­i­ty at the fore, Guer­ri­ni shared his dreams for the de­vel­op­ment of his cheese-mak­ing busi­ness, hop­ing to not on­ly ex­pand the build­ing's phys­i­cal ca­pac­i­ty with the ad­di­tion of a pack­ag­ing room and an ex­tra stor­age room, but to al­so once a month have an open day for mem­bers of the pub­lic to vis­it, sam­ple and pur­chase at a re­duced cost the lo­cal cheese and di­ary prod­ucts.

He hopes as well to use lo­cal labour when op­er­a­tions have ex­pand­ed, bring­ing in for­eign cur­ren­cy to Grande Riv­iere and T&T. Guer­ri­ni said his cheeses should re­tail at su­per­mar­kets across the coun­try for ap­prox­i­mate­ly $35 to $50 per pound.


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