For decades, many women of African descent have, for various reasons, tried to “tame” their natural hair with the use of chemical treatments. In recent times, though, there has been a shift to more women wearing their hair in its natural state, with some having a little more difficulty managing it than others.
“Natural hair is beautifully diverse, resilient, and expressive, but it also requires understanding, patience, and intentional care,” hair stylist Jody Stanislaus told WE.
“So whether your hair is loosely wavy, tightly coiled, colour-treated, or somewhere in between, healthy hair begins with knowledge.”
The hair typing system, made popular by renowned hairstylist and author Andre Walker, categorises hair based on curl pattern and texture. Generally, there are four hair types that range from 1A to 1C.
“While it’s a helpful starting point, it’s important to remember that no one fits perfectly into a single category. Many people have multiple textures on one head,” Stanislaus explained.
She emphasised that hair type does not determine hair health, beauty, or strength.
“Porosity, density, and strand thickness matter just as much, if not more.”
Type 1 is classified as straight hair, and reflects light easily but may struggle with oil control and lack of volume.
Type 2 is wavy and benefits from lightweight moisture and gentle-definition products.
Type 3 is curlier and thrives on moisture but is prone to dryness and tangling, while Type 4 is more coily/kinky and is the most fragile and moisture-dependent.
“But Type 4 is also the most versatile.”
Stanislaus said natural hair, especially curly and coily textures, faces a unique set of challenges.
Dryness is one of the most common issues, as natural oils don’t travel easily down bends and coils.
“And coupled with the fact that the ends of the hair are the oldest part of the shaft, it can make the hair prone to breakage.”
She said other factors that increase breakage include excessive manipulation, tight styles and protein/moisture imbalances.
“Single-strand knots or fairy knots are common in hair that coils over on itself. This especially happens when worn loose without stretching, for example, wash-and-go styles.”
Treating hair from
the scalp down
Another challenge is scalp issues such as dandruff, buildup and inflammation from product overload, infrequent washing, or underlying skin conditions.
“If changing your hair routine and products does not assist with your hair and scalp issues, it is important to see a doctor, since some issues may need to be assessed and treated by a doctor to clear up.”
And while many people may see shrinkage as a challenge, Stanislaus said it can be frustrating at times, but it is a sign of healthy, elastic hair.
Clean hair tends to grow better, and she recommends the use of sulfate-free shampoos for routine washing, as they are gentle on the scalp and strip less of the natural oils from the hair.
“They also reduce inflammation and irritation due to sensitive scalp and conditions like psoriasis. The frequency of hair washings depends on the texture and the moisture levels.” For instance, she said, straight hair tends to become oily faster because the sebum is able to slide down the hair shaft unobstructed by curls. Conversely, coily hair tends to be drier and may require less frequent washes.
“Co-washing is a great way to add moisture to the hair between washes, but it is no substitute for a proper shampoo.”
The use of conditioners is a must, as it restores moisture, improves slip, and smooths the cuticle. Conditioners must be rinsed out thoroughly after every wash using cool water.
“Deep conditioning is a non-negotiable for natural hair due to its tendency to be very dry. Other deep penetrating treatments like masks also serve to moisturise, detoxify, and treat the scalp.” These treatments improve the softness and flexibility of the hair, and sometimes a protein treatment becomes necessary.
“When the hair needs protein, it feels mushy or limp and overly elastic,” but too much protein will leave the hair very brittle. Stanislaus recommends a protein treatment be done every one to two months.
The way hair is handled on a daily basis has an impact on retention, and she said detangling damp or moisturised hair should be done using fingers first, then a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush, working in sections and detangling from the ends and moving upwards.
“The number one rule for detangling hair is to be gentle. Natural hair is strongest when wet but also more elastic, and rough handling leads to breakage.”
Stanislaus said contrary to popular belief, trims do not make hair grow, but they prevent breakage from travelling upward. As a result, regular trimming leads to healthier ends, better curl definition, less tangling and knotting and improved length retention.
“Most people benefit from trims every eight to 16 weeks, depending on wear, styling habits, and hair condition. Dusting (micro-trimming) is a great option for length-focused naturals.”
And while protective styling is often associated with curly and coily hair, all hair types can benefit from periods of reduced handling.
Straight hair can be styled in low buns, loose braids, pinned styles, and nighttime wrapping with silk or satin hair ties to help preserve the hair shaft and prevent excessive breakage. “This helps prevent split ends, breakage from frequent brushing, and heat damage from flat ironing and blow-drying.”
Wavy hair is particularly prone to frizz, tangling, and loss of pattern definition. Protective styles such as loose braids, low ponytails, and clipped-up styles help minimise friction while maintaining wave integrity.
“Curly hair can be protected with twists, braids, buns, and low-manipulation wash-and-go routines, paired with proper nighttime protection to help curls retain moisture and elasticity.
This helps reduce dryness, knots, and mid-shaft breakage.”
Coily and kinky hair often relies heavily on protective styling due to high shrinkage and dryness.
Styles such as twists, braids, cornrows, and properly installed wigs help reduce breakage and support length retention when the hair underneath is properly cleansed and moisturised.
But Stanislaus warns that protective styles can become damaging when done too tightly, causing scalp tension or when hair is not properly moisturised underneath the protective style. “The hair can also be damaged when the protective style is worn for extended periods without maintenance or when the hair is removed roughly or without detangling.”
She insists that natural haircare is about consistency, education, and listening to your hair, as what works for one person may not work for another, even if they have the same hair type.
“When you focus on scalp health, moisture balance, gentle handling, and realistic routines, healthy hair follows. Whether you wear your hair loose, locked, braided, or faded, your natural hair deserves patience, respect, and care.”
