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Saturday, April 5, 2025

Intrigue of Puzzle Island

by

20091121

Puz­zle Is­land, a small vil­lage on a hill in Debe, south Trinidad, was once an ac­tu­al is­land with­in the is­land of Trinidad. Res­i­dents said the hill, the cen­tre of the vil­lage, was once sur­round­ed by swamp lands and vil­lagers had to use boats if they want­ed to get in and out, or walk through waist-high wa­ter.

How Puz­zle Is­land got its name is an­oth­er in­trigu­ing sto­ry which an el­der­ly res­i­dent told the Sun­day Guardian last week.Sit­ting in the porch of his home at the bot­tom of the hill, which he said was once wa­ter, the vil­lager, re­quest­ing anonymi­ty, re­count­ed: "In the ear­ly 1900s a Crown grant of these lands was made to Sir Charles Ten­nant.

"It was on­ly a hill. Every­thing around was swamp. When they sur­veyed the land, they used the bor­ders of the swamp to de­ter­mine the bound­aries.

"It came out look­ing just like a piece of a jig­saw puz­zle." Puz­zle Is­land was first set­tled by in­den­tured labour­ers brought from In­dia to work with the New Colo­nial Com­pa­ny, lat­er called Usine St Madeleine Sug­ar Co Ltd. "The com­pa­ny want­ed the labour­ers close to the es­tate but the sug­ar cane sea­son last­ed on­ly six months of the year."So they put them on lands where they could grow crops to sus­tain them­selves for the oth­er six months," the res­i­dent said.

"The es­tate own­er brought them here and rent­ed them agri­cul­tur­al lands and they grew rice in the la­goons and plant­ed veg­eta­bles in the dri­er parts."

The res­i­dent's fa­ther, whose name he gave on­ly as S Ma­haraj, owned a shop in the vil­lage back then, he re­called. "This was a hard­ware, shop and rice mill in one. You used to get every­thing there, from cut­lass to hoe to cat­tle chain to gro­ceries and med­i­cine. "Vil­lagers took goods on cred­it for six months and when they worked in the es­tate for the next six months, they paid us off. "I re­mem­ber the train used to bring goods from San Fer­nan­do up to the rail­way stop at Su­chit Trace."We had no road to bring the goods in Puz­zle Is­land and we had to take it back on a boat."

The res­i­dent said his fa­ther bought "cre­ole rice" plant­ed by the vil­lagers in the la­goons, milled it and took it to Port-of-Spain to sell. "We used to buy dry black-eyed peas they al­so plant­ed. All the land in Puz­zle Is­land was cul­ti­vat­ed then. There was not a square inch of grass." Vil­lagers were deeply re­li­gious and a tem­ple, built on Puz­zle Is­land since first set­tlers, still stands in the area. Jen­ny's Bar now stands on the spot where the old shop used to be and well-paved roads link Puz­zle Is­land with Siparia, Bar­rack­pore and every part of the is­land. Neat con­crete hous­es, some lav­ish, now stand on land where swamp wa­ters used to be.

"I fill eight feet of land to build my house here," the res­i­dent said. A few res­i­dents, like Si­ta and Boyie Sookdeo, still live in "the la­goon" and have no road. Pri­vate de­vel­op­ers took the track they used and the cou­ple, who cul­ti­vate the land, have "nowhere to walk," they said. Trac­ing the start of the mod­erni­sa­tion of Puz­zle Is­land, the res­i­dent re­count­ed: "Dur­ing the colo­nial era, an oil com­pa­ny came to drill for oil in the area and built the first road. They didn't find oil. Lat­er, the gov­ern­ment built new roads."

The roads made life eas­i­er for Puz­zle Is­land, but at a price.

"Here is no longer a nice, qui­et place. Fifty per cent of the traf­fic be­tween San Fer­nan­do and Siparia pass­es through here," the res­i­dent said.

Then came schools.

In 1952, Bhadase Sagan Ma­haraj (a 1950s op­po­si­tion politi­cian) built the Su­chit Trace Hin­du School, which then prime min­is­ter Dr Er­ic Williams used to call a cow pen, the res­i­dent re­lat­ed. "Cana­di­an mis­sion­ar­ies built Pres­by­ter­ian schools here, with the aim of con­vert­ing the Puz­zle Is­land Hin­dus to Chris­tian­i­ty. "Ma­haraj de­cid­ed to coun­ter­act that by build­ing Hin­du schools us­ing his own mon­ey. The schools were just open sheds." (The Su­chit Trace school is now like a nor­mal school.) Un­der the mod­erni­sa­tion, Puz­zle Is­land has re­mained fun­da­men­tal­ly the same.

A sig­nif­i­cant num­ber of the vil­lagers still plant the land for a liv­ing. Most of the area's 25 or so farm­ers whole­sale fresh, healthy veg­eta­bles to the Debe mar­ket al­most all year round. Du­rain­dra Beepath, a Puz­zle Is­land farmer, re­cent­ly won a na­tion­al agri­cul­tur­al award. Beepath, 34, and his fa­ther, Per­sad, 62, were har­vest­ing ochroes in a sun­ny field last week that was once a rice la­goon. "I choose to con­tin­ue the fam­i­ly tra­di­tion of plant­i­ng the land be­cause I grow up in it and I like it," Beepath said de­cid­ed­ly.


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